I did a quick modification of a $30 Wilco Sandman gun using relatively safe flash cotton, and it worked out quite well. It can be quickly loaded by removing the front flash guard, and no tools are needed for reloading. Batteries (two AAA cells) are hidden in the grip. Hope this doesn't go over the limit re details... The image jpeg files, and a few wmv files are as follows:

http://home.comcast.net/~elliotts12/images/sand1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~elliotts12/images/sand2.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~elliotts12/images/sand3.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~elliotts12/images/sand4.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~elliotts12/images/sand5.wmv
http://home.comcast.net/~elliotts12/images/sand6.wmv

Now I'd REALLY like to machine my own metal carbide version. Does anyone have a set of mechanical drawings or cad files for machining a functional prop they could sell or trade me? TIA, Elliott. ers@mail.telebyte.com

I'm now officially registered as 3dddman (I build 3D cameras as a hobby). Just an added fyi re my modification of the Wilco Sandman gun (which is still in production-- google around to find a source). The modification images and info are for informational purposes only. This is an operational pyrotech device at this point, and any attempt to duplicate it is at your own risk. No further info will be supplied-- if you can't figure our something this simple from the pics, you shouldn't be trying to do it. ;)

So, got a website I can order a resin kit from? yours looks awesome and great video presentation. I am working on a modernized valve/delivery system thats 100% safer than the original.(Paintball airsmithing came in handy here!) Losing the carbide and moving to more stable and safer butane 9 gram cyl. cartidges for those curious to my endeavor, pursue on! No change in physical design whatsoever with this version. If somoene can provide 2 cheap metal prop bodies, I will return 1 finished working pistol.(The other I keep as payment, I will pay the return shipping as well.) Think it over and email me back before wanting to just jump right in so I dont wind up looking like the ds prop dude from the past. I dont want money I want my own working pistol as well. I will perfect my valve FIRST and make some type makeshift demo for video presentation first THEN you can, if interested in a very safe prop, send the metal kits. email me at QMarshal@hotmail.com or post here, I will check back often.

Oops sorry that above was my post, ^^^ forgot to login first ... but offer stands.

I think this is the kit that Elliot was referring to above.

http://www.megahobby.com/cgi-bin/shopper.e...archResult.html

I haven't ordered anything from this place before, so please make sure you do your homework before you do. Looks like they're out of stock at the moment at this place.

Looks like a nice, inexpensive way to get a good looking DS Blaster. Unfortunately, it's not to scale - but a fine model, nonetheless.

Elliot -- those are great pictures and videos! Thanks for sharing.

You can buy this kit direct. Wilco Models is only a side job for the owner, so be patient. The gun is made of black cast resin, so no painting needed. Just email Wilco at: wilcomodels@hotmail.com

You should have a bit of skill with resin, but you don't need much. The tricky part is opening up the flash suppressor, which I did via drilling 3/8 holes at each end of each slot and then carefully removing the center with a dremel cutting wheel. Even if you only make a static model, drilling out the flash suppressor is important to make the kit look good. Prior to drilling the slots, drill the bore (small hole in front, big hole running the length.

I did all the mods with a drill press and a dremel, plus hand sanding. No exotic tools used. Black superglue was used, which can be set instantly with superglue accelerator (hobby shop stuff again, and it sets all adhesives in the cyanoacrylate family). Black superglue is available from Stewart-MacDonald, www.stewmac.com (they're a musical instrument repair site).

I made an aluminum holster triangle, replacing the original resin one, to add strength for actually holstering the thing.

I really had to reduce resolution of the wmv files for the web, but they're good enough to get the idea... ;)

POSTSCRIPT:

I worked off and on for fifteen years as a commercial display pyrotechnician crew chief, so I really do know what's safe and what's not. (I can send my bonafides to anyone willing to share mechanical drawings of the components of a DS carbide frame and valve assembly to me).

I included the wmv of my 12 year old daughter in her Jane Austen costume firing the resin version, which I would have never allowed her to do if there was a question of safety. However, although I know what I'm doing, many won't. Don't build a functional DS gun of any kind unless you really know what's going on. All I'm doing is reporting on a project. What you do yourself is at your own risk. Elliott

No, it's not exactly to scale, but even most fans wouldn't know the difference. I have a copy of the studio blueprints, but modifying a resin kit to that level was beyond the pale. May as well just machine one! Anyway, for thirty bucks, hard to go wrong even if you only build the Wilco gun as a static model. If you didn't hollow out the front flash suppressor, you could build the kit in about 20 minutes!

:clap: :sandman: :hi: i really like the creativeness you have put into the wilco model!very cool!glad to also see another flamegun fanatic on this page!welcome!

Why is there a toggle switch?

I had this question asked as a private email, but I thought I should probably provide a public answer. The toggle switch is a safety, and deactivates the glow plug circuit so you can't accidentally hit the firing button on the trigger while loading it with flash cotton. That is assuming you remembered to turn the circuit off. Never ever build anything involving electricity and fire without a safety. It functions counterintuitively. Toggling it back deactivates the circuit and takes the firing button offline, toggling it forward activates the circuit. So when you holster it, you're more likely to turn it off if you forget. To shoot, it requires you to move your finger forward to take it off of "safe" before you move your finger back to press the firing button. Also, there's actually a toggle in this position on the movie prop version of the gun to turn on the glow plug, allowing the actor carring one more easily to light his pants on fire. Some idiot redisigned the gun for the TV show moving the toggle behind the grip-- safer, but requiring the actor to have the webbing between his thumb and forefinger surgically removed to hold the gun comfortably. (Just kidding re the cosmetic surgery.)

Oh yeah, another question that was asked offlist was why there was a slot in the brass tube of the muzzle piece. Note that it has a dogleg. When the front frame screw threads into the barrel piece, and into the brass insert that houses the glow plug to secure the frame to the barrel, it extends into the firing chamber about a sixteenth of an inch. This creates a path for the muzzle to slide back and twist lock into position. Sort of a multifunction thing, and I designed it this way because I didn't want to hassle with a wrench or screwdriver every time I wanted to recharge the pistol with flash cotton. I'm very lazy.

Lastly, thanks for the positive comment from the unregistered user. Just foolin' around, but it's fun...